Low-Impact Tastiness

It's the day after Thanksgiving, and you're full of turkey and other goodness, still your body wants to eat. Air-filled food and drink is the only option.

If like most of us, you've spent the last decade eating popcorn only in the form of movie or microwave, you're missing out. Popcorn is cheap, considering how long it lasts in its unpopped state; and tasty, considering what you can do with it.

Consider, then, duck fat popcorn and cheap sparkling wine.

Melt a healthy tablespoon of duck fat (home-rendered or purchased) over medium-low heat in a medium saucepan with a lid. Add enough popcorn kernels to cover the bottom of the pan. Cover and shake over heat, venting regularly to release steam. When popping slows or the lid pops off, remove from heat. Sprinkle with salt and your choice of seasoning, replace lid and shake, flipping upside down and back. Pour into a bowl (if you can wait), and pop some cheap bubbly.

Some notes:

*Rendered duck fat can be bought from speciality food retailers. You can make your own by trimming the excess skin/fat from a duck before roasting. Render the fat in a small pan over low heat on the stove. Filter through cheesecloth and store in the fridge. Use to roast potatoes, saute vegetables, and by all means, pop some pocorn.

*Some good, cheap bubblies:

• Domaine St. Vincent: a fantastic $10 sparkler from New Mexico. The second label of the venerable pinot/chardonnay Gruet.
• Grand Imperial: French, but not made in Champagne. Ridiculously inexpensive if you can find it, and plenty tasty. The ultimate sparkler for mimosas.
• Marquis de Perlade: A sparkler from Alsace. Slightly sweeter than the two mentioned above, but still dry and with lovely, creamy, cremant-style bubbles. Usually available at Whole Foods.
• Cristalino Brut: Available just about everywhere. Spanish sparkler so good it was served at my wedding. Don't you dare pay more for $9 for the stuff.

Green Orbs of Joy

I love brussels sprouts, and have a deep-seated distrust of those who don't. I can imagine it's because they have only tasted (or smelled) them boiled into a mushy, sulfurous pile. These baby cabbages are quite versatile - you can braise, roast, or saute them; they take kindly to flavorful fats, and they keep fairly well in the fridge. The following was my contribution to the Thanksgiving feast:

Shredded Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta and Pecans

1 lb.+ Brussels sprouts
6 slices pancetta (bacon is okay)
1 cup whole pecans
Oil (I use olive)
Vinegar (I use sherry vinegar)
Spices (definitely salt and pepper, but others as well - read on!)

Preheat oven to 350.

Trim the brussels sprouts by slicing the tough bottoms off of each, then cut lengthwise through the middle, and shred by slicing thinly crosswise. You might have to agitate them a little between your fingers to separate your shreds. You should end up with a pile of sprout shreds.

Chop your chosen pork product into small pieces. Fry in a large skillet over medium heat until crisp. Don't fry too quickly - you want to render out as much of the fat as possible. When done, remove solids from the pan, reserving the fat in the pan.

While bacon is rendering, slice pecans in half lengthwise. Toss is a bowl with a bit of oil and some spices - garlic powder, smoked paprika, and cayene for example - then spread evenly on a baking sheet. Bake at 350 until frangrant, about 10 minutes. (Watch carefully, so they don't burn!)

Back to your skillet. You should have a few teaspoons of pork fat rendered in the pan. If it looks dry, supplement with another fat (I use good lard but duck fat or olive oil would also work). Still over medium heat, toss in your shredded sprouts. Sprinkle liberally with salt, and toss as they wilt. Increase your heat slightly and continue to stir, scraping any porky fond from the bottom of the pan. Continue for about 10 minutes, or until the sprouts are tender. Grind some pepper over the top, and sprinkle generously with your vinegar of choice. Stir, then taste and adjust seasoning.

When properly cooked and seasoned, incorporate bacon and pecan pieces, and taste again. Fiddle with seasoning and taste. Repeat until satsified (or full).

Serve with roasted anything to amazed guests, or eat by the bowl.